MATERIALS WITH A PREVIOUS LIFE
WORKING WITH
RECLAIMED TEXTILES
Most Aleatorio Designs pieces begin with fabric that has already had another use. I work with second-hand clothing, bedding, household textiles, leftover fabric and offcuts from previous projects.Before any of those materials can become part of a quilt, pouch or wall hanging, they have to be identified, assessed, cleaned, deconstructed and organised. Their condition and dimensions help determine what can be made.
BEHIND THE FINISHED WORK: MATERIALS IN THE STUDIO
Materials arrive in the studio as unwanted garments, curtains, bedding, table linen, fabric remnants and donations from family and friends. Scraps from previous projects also return to the material supply.
I use the smallest pieces of scraps, low quality threadbare fabric and stained fabric as filling for my poufs.I use natural fibres where they suit the project, particularly cotton and linen, but reclaimed materials are not always clearly labelled. Some fabrics are synthetic or blends. I also use new thread, batting, interfacing, zips and hardware when they are needed for strength or function.
I use reclaimed materials wherever they are suitable, but not at the expense of sound construction. Sometimes a new component is the better choice if it helps the finished piece last, because there is little benefit in making something entirely from reclaimed materials if it breaks after a few uses. The known fabric composition and any new components are disclosed with each product. When the exact fibre content cannot be confirmed, I state that clearly.
clothing
Jeans, shirts, dresses, jackets and other garments containing fabric that can be cleaned, deconstructed and used again.
Household Textiles
Bedding, curtains, table linen and other household fabrics that provide useful sections of fabric.
notions
Buttons, zips, elastic, ribbons, thread and other sewing supplies recovered from textiles or passed on unused.
hardware
Buckles, D-rings, sliders, clasps, snaps and other reusable components suitable for bags, pouches and textile accessories.
HOW I DECIDE WHAT CAN BE USED
A textile is not useful simply because it is second-hand. Before putting time into washing and deconstruction, I check its fibre content, weight, structure and overall condition. I record the composition when a reliable label is available. If it is unknown, I assess the fabric carefully and avoid making claims that cannot be verified.
I look for thinning, holes, weakened seams, permanent creases, colour transfer and damage caused by wear, sunlight or previous washing. Fabric with persistent odours, contamination or stains that cannot be removed is not used in products.
The final decision depends on what the material needs to do. A lightweight or worn fabric may still work well in patchwork, but it may not be suitable for a bag, strap or frequently handled closure. Weight, stretch, weave, drape and surface wear all help determine where the fabric can be used safely and whether it needs reinforcement.
SORT, CLEAN & PREPARE
Using second-hand fabric involves plenty of work before the actual sewing begins. The materials need to be sorted, cleaned and prepared. I keep incoming textiles separate from the cleaned, deconstructed fabric ready for use. This takes time, but it keeps the fabric ready to use and saves me from searching through a mountain of textiles for every project.
SELECT & SORT BY MONTH
At the beginning of each quarter, I review the textiles that have accumulated and select materials for the projects planned over the next three months. The fabric is divided between three crates, one for each month. Everything that is not needed stays in the unsorted supply until a future quarter.
WASH & AIR DRY
I wash the fabric selected for each month as a separate load using fragrance-free detergent. Once clean, the textiles are air-dried outside whenever the weather allows and kept together with the rest of that month’s materials.
DECONSTRUCT & STORE
After washing, I deconstruct the textiles and cut around stains, threadbare areas and other weak points as I work. I usually wait to press the fabric until I need it, unless it is particularly wrinkled. Prepared fabric and pieces left after a project are stored by type and colour, with denim divided further into black, white, light, medium and dark blue.
DECONSTRUCTING TEXTILES WITH CARE
Once a textile is clean, it is time to take it apart. The aim is to recover useful fabric without spending hours preserving sections that are too worn, too small or unsuitable for future work.
Zips, buttons, buckles and other hardware are removed when they are still functional. Seams and hems may be opened when doing so preserves a worthwhile area of fabric.
I work around worn areas, permanent stains and previous alterations. Those limits affect the dimensions of the recovered fabric and often influence the scale and structure of the project that follows.
HOW I ORGANISE FABRIC & SCRAPS
Prepared fabric is organised by type first and colour second. Denim, for example, is stored together and then divided into black, white, light blue, medium blue and dark blue. White cotton, linen and other suitable natural fibres are kept separately for natural dyeing.
The smallest usable scraps are sorted into broad colour groups: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, brown, beige, black and white. This keeps the system simple and makes it easier to find suitable pieces.
THE MATERIAL SHAPES THE DESIGN
FOUR WAYS I WORK WITH SMALLER PIECES
Reclaimed fabric rarely arrives in the exact size, colour or quantity a project requires. I use several construction methods to combine smaller pieces, choosing the approach according to the fabric available and the purpose of the finished item.
IMPROVISED PIECING
Improvised piecing begins with whatever shapes and quantities I have available. I build the surface as I sew, adjusting the layout to fit the different pieces of fabric.
COLOUR BLOCKING
I combine compatible fabrics across different pattern pieces, matching their weight and structure so the finished item works properly.
CRUMB PIECING
Crumb piecing joins very small, irregular scraps into larger panels that can be cut and reinforced for a project.
TRADITIONAL PATCHWORK BLOCKS
Traditional blocks combine small, varied pieces within a consistent repeated structure.
CONTINUE FROM HERE
LEARN MORE OR
SEE THE FINISHED WORK
Find practical guidance for working with reclaimed fabrics, see how these materials are used across the studio or view the finished pieces currently available.
VISIT THE STUDIO SHOP TEXTILE WORK RECLAIMED FABRIC GUIDES