A lavender eye pillow is one of the simplest projects you can sew, but it is also one of the most useful.These soothing little pillows are great for relieving stress, enhancing relaxation, and even improving sleep. The weight of the pillow blocks out light and the smell of lavender calms your mind. Great for yoga, meditation, and drifting off to sleep. Paired with a simple lavender sachet, you can extend that same function into your home, keeping fabrics fresh and adding a controlled, natural scent to enclosed spaces. This guide shows how to make a lavender eye pillow and a matching sachet using straightforward construction and natural materials. The finished pillow measures around 4 3/4” × 9 3/4” (12 cm x 25 cm) and weighs around 220 gram. The cover is removable and washable. A super easy and satisfying sewing project.
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Materials and Fabric Choices
For the outer fabric, choose something soft and comfortable. Cotton, linen, or silk are the most practical options. If you have second-hand fabric available, such as bedding or worn garments, these are often ideal because they are already softened through use. For the inner casing, use a lightweight but stable fabric. This layer holds the filling and does not need to be visible. A simple cotton voile works well. For filling you have different options, flaxseed, rice, beans, cherry pits to mention a few. Here I’m using rice, it’s cheap, available, and holds onto the lavender scent well. For ties you can use any string, tape, or ribbon that is between 0.5 cm and 1 cm. I used two ties on each side for extra hold, but one tie on each side is enough.
Materials & Tools You’ll Need
- Sewing machine (or you can hand sew this)
- Basic sewing kit (see the post on tools and materials)
- Cover fabric: You can use any fabric you are comfortable putting on your face. Cotton, linen, and silk are great alternatives. I`ve used a piece of old organic cotton bedding. It`s soft, breathable, and can be washed in the washing machine.
- Inner fabric (casing): The fabric that is going to hold the rice. You can use whatever lightweight fabric you want. I used some scrap cotton voile I had laying around. I’ve also use the same fabric to line the patchwork on the inside of the cover.
- Bias tape, twill tape, or any string for ties (0.5-1 cm in width)
- Rice: 200-300 gram rice, or as heavy as you want it. Just make sure it fits comfortably in the casing and lies loosely over your eyes.
- Dried lavender: For fragrance and relaxation. I added some dried Spanish lavender from my own back yard, but it`s easily available online or in health shops. You can use any type of lavender available to you (it doesn’t have to be Spanish), and you can use both the buds and the stems.
- Lavender essential oil (Optional): you can add some drops for extra fragrance. I like to add some from time to time just on the casing after the pillow has been in use for a while. Just be careful with essential oils, as they are quite concentrated and might provoke allergic reactions.
- Funnel or spoon to add the rice and lavender
Lavender Eye Pillow (Step-by-Step)
Step 1: Cut out all the pieces.
Start by cutting all components for the front patchwork, outer cover, inner pillow, and ties. Keeping everything organised at this stage will make the assembly much easier.
Front Patchwork (Sawtooth Stars + Sashing)
You will make two sawtooth star blocks, each finishing at 4” (10 cm) or 4 1/2” (11.5 cm) unfinished. The measurements below are for one star, so cut double for two stars.
Sawtooth Star (per block):
- 1 square: 3 1/4” (8.3 cm)
- 1 centre square: 2 1/2” (6.4 cm)
- 4 squares: 2 1/2” (6.4 cm)
- 4 corner squares: 1 1/2” (3.8 cm)
Sashing and Cornerstones
Sashing:
- 6 pieces: 1 1/8” × 4 1/8” (3 cm × 10.5 cm)
- 1 piece: 1” × 4 1/8” (2.5 cm × 10.5 cm)
Cornerstones:
- 2 pieces: 1 3/8” × 1” (3.5 cm × 2.5 cm)
- 4 pieces: 1 3/8” × 1 3/8” (3.5 cm × 3.5 cm)
Top Piece (Tie Section)
- 1 piece: 1 1/8” × 6” (3 cm × 15 cm)
This piece will sit at the top of the pillow cover and hold the ties.
Rest of Outer Cover Pieces
- Back fabric: 11” × 6” (28 cm × 15 cm)
- Lining fabric: 11” × 6” (28 cm × 15 cm)
Inner Pillow (Filling Bag)
- 2 pieces: 10 1/4” × 5 1/4” (26 cm × 13.5 cm)
Tie Strips (if sewing your own)
- 4 pieces: 1 1/2” × 8” (4 cm × 20 cm)
Seam Allowances
Use consistent seam allowances depending on the construction method:
- Patchwork piecing: 1/4” (0.5-0.6 cm)
- French seams and top hem: 5/8” (1.5 cm)
- Inner pillow construction: 3/8” (1 cm)
Step 2: Piece the sawtooth star blocks and add sashing
Start with the 3 1/4” (8.3 cm) square as your base. Take the four 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) squares and draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each one.
Place two of the small squares on opposite corners of the larger square, right sides together. The drawn lines should run across the corners and meet in the middle. Sew along each drawn line at 1/4″ (0.6 cm) seam allowance. Cut between the two seams, then press the seams open. You will now have a unit with two diagonal corners attached.
Repeat this process with the remaining two small squares, placing them on the two open corners of the unit. Again, sew along the drawn lines, cut between the seams, and press open. This gives you a unit with four points, forming the outer shape of the star.
Trim the unit carefully if needed so it stays square and measures consistently, one unit should be 1″ x 2″.
Next, assemble the block using the remaining pieces. Arrange the 2 1/2” (6.4 cm) centre square, the four 2 1/2” (6.4 cm) side squares, and the completed flying geese unit into a 3 × 3 layout. Sew the pieces together row by row using a 1/4” (0.6 cm) seam allowance, then join the rows to complete the block.
Press the seams open or to the side. The block should measure 4 1/2” (11.5 cm) unfinished, ready to be joined with the sashing in the next step.
Join two sashing pieces to the top and bottom of your sawtooth star blocks at 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams towards the sashing. Take the rest of the sashing strips (the middle one is slightly narrower than the rest), attach the corners stones to all the short sides, press seams open. Finally attach the cornerstones + sashing strip units to the sawtooth star units to complete the panel.
Attach the top piece to the patchwork unit, this is where your ties are going to be and the top of the pillow, the other side will be the bottom. Sew at 1/4″ seam allowance and press open
Step 3: Sew the cover
Align the lining with the back of the patchwork unit and baste the layers together to keep them stable. The lining for the front of the cover is there to enclose the patchwork back, so that all the seams are not exposed. Place this unit on top of the plain cover piece with wrong sides together. The patchwork should be facing up, with the lining sandwiched between the two layers. The seams will be finished using French seams for a clean, enclosed edge.
Start by sewing along one short side (the bottom of the pillow) using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Trim the seam down to about 1/8” (0.3 cm) and press it open (image 4-5). Fold the pieces so that right sides are now together, enclosing the raw edge inside the seam. Roll the seam gently between your fingers to even it out, then stitch again at just under 1/4” (0.4-0.5 cm) to fully enclose the edge. This completes your first French seam. Repeat the same process on both long sides. Before sewing the second pass, clip the corners slightly (image 8) to reduce bulk and help the seams sit cleanly once turned.
Step 4: Sew or prepare the ties
You can make the ties using double-fold bias tape or straight-grain strips. Fold the strip lengthwise and fold one short side inside at about 1/4″, when you fold the strip now there will be no raw edge. Edgestitch along both long sides and the folded short side to secure it. For this project, I used straight-grain strips cut to about 1 1/2” (4 cm) wide. They are quick to make, stable, and easy to sew. You can also use ready-made options like twill tape or cord. The main requirement is that the tie is flat to reduce bulk and no wider than 3/8” (1 cm) when finished, so it sits neatly inside the seam.
Step 5: Attach the ties and finish the cover
Fold the raw edge of the cover to the inside by 1/4” (0.5 cm) and press. It may be easier to do this with the cover turned inside out. Mark the placement for the ties. I positioned mine 1 1/4” (3 cm) from each side seam. Slide the ties into place so they sit just under the folded edge, leaving a small gap of a few millimetres between the fold and the end of the tie to keep the edge clean and reduce bulk. Fold the edge over again by another 1/4” (0.5 cm) to enclose the raw edge and trap the ties inside. Pin or baste to secure. Topstitch all the way around the edge to form a clean hem and anchor the ties. For added strength, especially with frequent use, you can sew a second line of stitching parallel to the first. The cover is now finished and ready to use.
Step 6: Constructing the Inner Pillow
Place the two inner fabric pieces right sides together, aligning all edges. Sew around the perimeter using a 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance, leaving a small opening of about 1 1/4”–2” (3–5 cm) on one short side. This opening will be used for turning and filling.
Trim the corners diagonally to reduce bulk, being careful not to cut into the stitching. Turn the pillow right side out through the opening, then gently push out the corners. Press lightly to define the shape and create clean edges, keeping the opening accessible for the next step.
Step 7: Filling the Pillow
Prepare the filling before adding it to the inner pillow. Mix the rice and dried lavender thoroughly so the scent is evenly distributed. If your lavender is in whole dried buds, you can crush them lightly to help release some of the fragrance during use. Whole buds tend to retain their scent longer, and you can gently squeeze the finished pillow to refresh the aroma when needed.
A good starting point is about 200-250 g (7-9 oz) of rice, adjusting slightly depending on how much weight you prefer. Use a funnel or spoon to transfer the filling into the pillow through the opening. Fill to around three-quarters full, leaving enough space for the filling to move freely. This flexibility allows the pillow to settle comfortably over the eyes. Avoid overfilling, as it will make the pillow stiff and less comfortable to use.
Step 8: Closing the Pillow
Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by about 3/8” (1 cm), using the seam allowance as a guide, and press to create a clean edge. Close the opening with a ladder stitch (slip stitch) for a neat, nearly invisible finish. Keep the stitches small and the tension even so the seam sits flat. If you prefer, you can close the opening with a narrow line of machine topstitching. Stitch close to the edge and keep it as flat as possible to avoid a bulky seam. The inner pillow is now complete and ready to be placed inside the cover.
Simple Lavender Sachet
These little handmade sachets aren’t just cute and practical, they also make fantastic natural air fresheners and bug deterrents. Toss them in your drawers, closets, linen cupboards, or even your car for a lovely, calming scent that keeps fabrics fresh and safe from pests. These are perfect to use up scraps from making your eye pillow.
Step 1: Prepare the fabric and cut out the pieces + hanging loop
Use any fabric you have left from the eye pillow. Smaller scraps can be pieced together to create a new front panel, while larger pieces work well for the back. I made an extra sawtooth star block for the sachet.
For one sachet, cut:
- 2 squares: 3 1/2” × 3 1/2” (9 cm × 9 cm)
Optional hanging loop:
- 1 strip: 4” long (10 cm)
- Width: 1/4”–3/8” (0.5–1 cm)
You can adjust the loop length depending on how you plan to use the sachet. A longer loop works well for hanging on wardrobe rails or hangers, while a shorter one keeps the sachet compact for drawers. Keep the fabric lightweight and easy to handle so the sachet sits flat once filled.
Step 2: Sew the sachet
If you are adding a hanging loop, decide on the placement first. Position the loop between the two fabric layers, aligning the raw ends of the loop with the raw edge of the sachet. If you place it in a corner like I did here, it will not align perfectly, that’s fine. The loop itself should be facing inward. Once turned right side out, it will sit correctly on the outside. Place the two fabric pieces right sides together and sew around the edges using a 1/2” (1.2 cm) seam allowance, leaving an opening of about 1 1/4” (3 cm) for turning and filling.
Trim the seam allowances slightly and clip the corners to reduce bulk. Press the seam allowances open as much as possible, especially at the opening, as this will guide you when closing it later.
Turn the sachet right side out through the opening. Gently roll the seams between your fingers to shape the edges, then press flat for a clean, even finish.
Step 3: Fill the sachet and sew it shut
Fill the sachet with dried lavender using a funnel or spoon. A simple paper funnel works well for this. Do not overfill. The sachet should stay soft and slightly flat, so it sits neatly in drawers or hangs without becoming bulky.
If you want a stronger scent, you can add a drop or two of essential oil to the filling. Keep it minimal to avoid staining the fabric.
Fold the raw edges of the opening inward along the pressed lines from the previous step. Close the opening with a ladder stitch (slip stitch) for a clean, nearly invisible finish.
Tips for Customising and Decorating Your Sachets
You can decorate and customise your sachets in a bunch of different ways. Consider repurposing vintage linens or embroidered handkerchiefs for an heirloom-quality feel. Mix and match fabric patterns and textures to create unique combinations. Embroider initials or names on sachets, making thoughtful customized gifts. Use fabric stamps or fabric paint for decorative patterns or motifs. Attach buttons, lace, or beads for additional charm. Embroider your initials or a cute design.
Care, Storage, and Longevity
Store both items in a sealed container when not in use to maintain the scent. This slows the loss of fragrance. The scent will fade. It can be refreshed by adding a small amount of essential oil to the inner pillow or sachet. The outer cover of the eye pillow can be removed and washed as needed. The inner pillow should remain dry. Gentle handling and storage extend the life of both items.
A lavender eye pillow is a simple sewing project and is fast to make, it is a perfect scrap buster for using up your small pieces of fabric. It is customisable and makes a great gift. The little sachet is even easier to sew and made to use up whatever is left over from making your eye pillow. Try making an eye-pillow and see how it feels and make some sachets for your closet before packing away your winter clothes.
