If you love the look of quilted fabric but aren’t ready to tackle a full-sized quilt, a quilted wall hanging is the perfect project! It gives you the piecing, pressing, quilting, and finishing of a larger project, but in a format that is much more manageable. That makes it a useful place to build skills, test a colour palette, or use fabrics that you want to see and enjoy without turning them into a bed quilt. This design features six simple eight-point star blocks with sashing, making it both approachable and visually stunning when displayed on your wall. The finished size is around 49 cm x 73.5 cm (19.3” x 29”).
The fabric I’ve used here is second-hand bed sheets. Naturally dyed with rock rose (Cistus), which produced fresh greens and yellows that suit a spring palette particularly well. If you’re curious about dyeing with this fragrant Mediterranean plant, I’ve written a separate post on how to dye fabric with rock rose if you want to follow that process step by step. You can, of course, use any palette you prefer, from soft neutrals to stronger contrast. In this guide, I will walk you through how to make a quilted wall hanging step by step, from cutting the pieces to binding the edges and adding a hanging finish.
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Materials, Tools, and Fabric Choices
For the quilt top, cotton is the most reliable option. It presses well, cuts accurately, and behaves predictably during piecing and quilting. You can also use linen or poly-cotton blends if you prefer, linen, or even denim. A quilted wall hanging is more forgiving than a quilt that will be used as bedding because it is not intended for frequent washing or heavy wear. That gives you a little more flexibility with fabric choice.
You will need:
- Sewing machine
- Basic sewing kit (see my essential sewing tools and materials guide if you need a clear setup)
- Rotary cutter, ruler, and mat if available: I prefer this for quilting, it’s fast and precise. A pair of fabric shears is absolutely fine too.
- Fabric for the quilt top: roughly 0.5 m (20 in) of 150 cm (60 in)for the yellow star fabric, and the same for the background/sashing fabric.
- Backing fabric: A piece around 60 cm x 85 cm (23 5/8 in x 33 1/2 in). This gives a little space all around the edges. Backing fabric can be anything with similar weight and feel as the main fabric. I like to piece my backings and use up scraps. In this wall hanging I’ve pieced fabric from an old shirt.
- Fabric for hanging sleeves: Cut out 2 pieces measuring 15 cm x 20 cm (6 in x 7 7/8 in). Same fabric as the backing
- Batting: Here I used a a low loft cotton batting. t’s versatile without adding much weight. You can use your preferred batting or an blanket. You just need something soft as a middle layer.
- Binding: 2 m (79 in) of binding, about 18 mm (3/4 in) width. You can use ready made or make your own binding. It doesn’t need to be cut on the bias, as there are no curves to bind in this wall quilt.
- Quilting thread or Perle cotton (#5 or #8, I’ve used #5 here) if hand quilting
Before cutting anything, wash and press your fabric. Wrinkles distort measurements, and unwashed fabric can shift later. If you are using scraps or naturally dyed fabric, make sure everything is dry, flat, and stable before you begin.
Cut out for the quilt blocks: for this tutorial I’m making an easy 8-pointed star quilt block, with simple squares and no Y-seams. You can use your preferred method, as long as the quilt block is 8” finished. The number in the parentheses are the total amount of squares for the whole quilt top.
Background fabric (Green):
- 4 (24) squares: 9 cm (3 1/2 in)
- 4 (24) squares: 6.5 cm (2 1/2 in) (corner squares)
Star fabric (Yellow):
- 8 (48) squares: 9 cm (3 1/2 in)
Cut out the sashing and cornerstones: The cornerstone needs to match the width of the sashing strip, so everything lines up when you join the rows and columns.
- Sashing (Green):
- 17 strips: 21.5 cm x 4 cm (8 1/2 in x 1 5/8 in)
- Cornerstone:
- 12 squares: 4 cm x 4 cm (1 5/8 in x 1 5/8 in)
Step 1: Make Six (Easy) Eight-Point Star Blocks
Cut all the required squares for your blocks and set the 6.5 cm (2 1/2 in) squares aside for later. For one block, take the four green 9 cm (3 1/2 in) squares and pair each one with a yellow 9 cm (3 1/2 in) square, placing them right sides together. Take the remaining four yellow squares and pair them together in the same way. You should now have six pairs in total, with two pairs made from yellow squares only.
On the back of each pair, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. Sew a seam on each side of this line, keeping a 0.6 cm (1/4 in) seam allowance. Cut along the drawn line to separate the unit into two triangles, then press the seams open. Each pair will give you two half square triangles, so you should end up with twelve HSTs in total.
These units will be slightly larger than needed, so trim each one down to 6.5 cm (2 1/2 in) in squares. Once trimmed, take the four green 6.5 cm (2 1/2 in) corner squares and lay out all the HSTs to form a star pattern, using your diagram as a guide. Take time to check the orientation of each HST so the points align correctly.
Begin sewing the block together in rows using a scant 0.6 cm (1/4 in) seam allowance. You can piece the rows horizontally or vertically; choose the direction that feels more consistent for you. Once the rows are complete, join the first two rows together, then the remaining rows, aligning the seams carefully so the points meet cleanly. Press the seams open or to one side, depending on your preference. For wall hangings, the choice is mostly visual, as the piece will not be handled or washed as often as a quilt.
Repeat the process to make all six blocks. Press each block well and check the size. Each unfinished block should measure 21.5 cm (8 1/2 in). Once assembled into the wall hanging, the blocks will finish at 20 cm (8 in).
Step 2: Add the Sashing and Assemble the Quilt Top
This is the method I use to piece the quilt top. The layout is built in smaller sections to avoid long, narrow seams that can stretch or shift out of alignment. Keeping the units compact makes it easier to control accuracy, especially where the sashing and cornerstones meet. If you prefer a different construction order, you can adjust the process. The key is to keep seams straight, match intersections carefully, and press as you go so the quilt top stays flat and consistent.
Cut all sashing strips to size and prepare the cornerstones before you start assembling the wall hanging. Begin with the four star blocks that will form the top and bottom rows. Attach sashing strips to the top and bottom edges of these blocks first. Then prepare six sashing strips by sewing two cornerstones to each strip. These will be used to connect the rows and define the spacing between blocks.
Attach the sashing strips with cornerstones to the outer edges and between the blocks, building the top and bottom sections of the wall hanging. Keep the seams aligned as you sew, especially where the cornerstones meet the sashing.
Next, take the remaining two star blocks and the three remaining sashing strips. Attach the strips to the outer edges and between the two blocks to form the middle row.
Once all three sections are prepared, join the top unit and the bottom unit to the middle row. Match the seams at each intersection so the sashing and cornerstones line up cleanly across the quilt top.
Press after each step to keep the work flat and controlled. When the full wall hanging is assembled, give the entire quilt top a final press so it is even and ready for the next stage.
Step 3: Prepare the Backing and Batting
Cut the backing fabric so it extends beyond the quilt top on all sides. Add about 3 to 5 cm (1 1/4 in to 2 in) extra around the entire piece. For this wall hanging, the backing should measure approximately 60 cm x 85 cm (23 5/8 in x 33 1/2 in). If you are piecing the backing, join the sections using straight, stable seams and press them well, either open or to one side. Keep the backing flat and even so it does not introduce distortion when layering.
Cut the batting slightly smaller than the backing, but still larger than the quilt top. You want the batting to extend past the quilt top by at least 2 to 3 cm (3/4 in to 1 1/4 in) on all sides. This extra margin allows for small shifts during quilting and any slight shrinkage. The layers will be trimmed and squared up once the quilting is complete.
Step 4: Make the Quilt Sandwich and Decide on a Quilting Design
Layer the quilt by placing the backing fabric right side down, then adding the batting on top, and finishing with the quilt top right side up. This creates the quilt sandwich. Make sure the backing and batting extend beyond the quilt top on all sides so you have enough margin for quilting and trimming later. Smooth each layer carefully as you stack them. Start from the centre and work outwards with your hands to remove any wrinkles or trapped air. The layers should sit flat without tension.
Before moving on, decide on a quilting design that suits the scale of the wall hanging and supports the piecing. Straight lines, a simple grid, echo quilting, or lines that follow the star shapes are all suitable options. For this version, I used irregular hand-quilted straight lines, which add texture without competing with the star blocks.
If you plan to mark your quilting design, do it now on the quilt top using a tool that can be removed completely. The marks should be clear enough to follow while quilting, but easy to take out once the work is finished. I prefer using plain chalk without wax. Many tailor’s chalks include wax so the marks stay in place, but that wax can press into the fabric and become difficult to remove, especially after heat is applied. Heat erasable pens can also leave residue on some fabrics, which makes them less reliable for a finished piece.
Non-waxed chalk is easy to apply and easy to remove, which makes it a practical choice. It can rub off more quickly, so if needed you can mark small sections at a time and work through the design gradually. For a wall hanging, this is usually not a problem because the surface area is manageable. A simple option is standard school chalk. It is inexpensive and widely available. You can sharpen it with a knife to create a finer edge, which gives you more control when marking lines.
At this stage, the quilt top is layered and ready for the next step.
Step 5: Baste and Quilt the Wall Hanging
Before quilting, secure the three layers so they do not shift. You can use quilting safety pins, hand basting, or basting spray. I usually work with bent quilting pins combined with a few lines of hand basting to keep everything stable. Basting spray is faster, but it can spread beyond the fabric and leave residue on your work surface, so it requires more control.
For a quilted wall hanging, stable basting is important. The finished piece will hang flat, so any shifting or distortion becomes visible. Take the time to smooth the layers again before fixing them in place, working from the centre outwards. Once the quilt is secured, begin quilting from the centre and work outward. This helps distribute any excess fabric towards the edges rather than trapping it in the middle. Use a consistent stitch length and spacing, focusing on an even rhythm rather than speed. Check the back regularly to make sure the stitches are forming correctly and that there are no folds or puckers.
If you are quilting by hand, use a simple running stitch and keep your knots within the seam allowance or areas that will later be covered by the binding. This keeps the finish clean while securing the thread properly. If you are quilting by machine, a slightly longer straight stitch works well and shows the quilting lines clearly without weakening the fabric. When the quilting is complete, give the piece a light press to relax the fabric.
Step 6: Square Up the Quilted Wall Hanging
Once the quilting is finished, square up the piece before adding the binding. This step defines the final shape of the wall hanging. If the edges are uneven or the corners are not true right angles, the piece will not hang straight. A square ruler is useful here, as it allows you to check and cut accurate 90° corners. A triangle ruler works just as well, or any tool with a true right angle that you can use as a reference. For the longer edges, use the longest ruler you have, such as a yardstick, to keep the lines straight and continuous across the full length.
Lay the quilt flat on a large surface and smooth it out without stretching. Use a ruler to check the edges and mark the final dimensions. Work from one straight edge and build out from there, checking that opposite sides are parallel and that each corner forms a right angle before cutting. Trim the excess backing and batting so all layers sit flush with the quilt top. Cut in small sections and keep checking alignment as you go rather than trimming everything at once.
If you have hand quilted the piece, leave any knots that fall within the binding allowance (typically about 0.6 cm (1/4 in) from the edge) in place. These will be enclosed by the binding later and help keep the quilting secure without being visible. If you have trimmed across thicker quilting thread, such as the one used here, take a moment to secure those cut ends. Stitch over them a few times within the binding allowance so they are held in place. This step is not strictly necessary, but I always take time for it as thicker thread might pop out of the seams even after it’s bound.
Step 7: Bind the Edges
At this stage, you have a fully quilted piece. The final construction step is to bind the edges, which finishes the raw edges and frames the wall hanging. You can use pre-made double-fold bias tape or make your own binding. If you want to make your own, follow my full guide here: how to make quilt binding from scratch. This covers cutting, joining, and preparing the binding so it sits evenly around the quilt.
Once your binding is ready, attach it to the front of the quilt. For a complete step-by-step method, including how to handle corners and finishes, see: how to attach quilt binding step by step. That tutorial walks through the full process in detail, including machine and hand-finishing options.
Step 8: Make and attach the hanging sleeves
Your quilt is bound, it’s time to prepare it for hanging. A hanging sleeve is a fabric tube that allows you to slip a dowel or rod through it for easy hanging. A long hanging sleeve is better for heavy and big wall quilts. Corner triangles work best for small and light wall hangings. I mostly stay in the middle, with two medium-sized sleeves at each end of the quilt, leaving space in the middle for hanging the quilt.
Fold the pieces lengthwise aligning the long raw edges wrong sides together and sew at 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance. Press the seam open and reposition it so it sits centred on the back of the sleeve. Fold the seam allowance towards the seam, tucking away the raw edge, stitch on each side. This is optional, but I like to finish the edges.
Take your hanging sleeve pieces and hem the short sides (fold towards the wrong side twice at 0.5 cm (1/4 in) and topstitch in place). Fold the pieces lengthwise aligning the long raw edges wrong sides together and sew at 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance. Press the seam open and reposition it so it sits centred on the back of the sleeve. To create space for the hanging rod, fold one side of the sleeve slightly upwards before attaching it. This creates a gentle “D” shape rather than a flat tube, which prevents the rod from pushing against the quilt front and distorting it.
Position the sleeves along the top back edge of the quilt, placing them about 1–2 cm (3/8 in to 3/4 in) below the top edge so they do not show when the quilt is hanging. Keep them inset slightly from the sides so the rod remains hidden.
Pin or baste the sleeves in place, then hand stitch along the top and bottom edges. You can use a simple running stitch with the same thread used for the quilting so it blends with the existing stitching, or work with small, even stitches for a cleaner finish. Catch only the backing fabric and batting, avoiding the quilt top so the stitches do not show on the front.
Once attached, check that the sleeve has a bit of ease and is not pulled tight. You should be able to slide a rod or dowel through without resistance. This small amount of slack is what allows the quilt to hang flat without strain. Insert your rod, and the wall hanging is ready to display. For the dowel, I usually buy several metres of round wooden stick from a local hardware shop and cut it to size. The diameter depends on the size and weight of the quilted wall hanging. Somewhere between 1 cm to 3 cm (3/8 in to 1 1/4 in) usually works, depending on the piece. For this wall hanging 1.5 cm (5/8 in) is plenty.
Care and Display Notes
Your quilted wall hanging is finished! Time to step back, admire your work, and find the perfect spot to display it. Your handmade creation deserves to be shown off. To keep it in good condition, avoid placing it in direct sunlight, as this will fade the fabric and stitching. Dust it occasionally with a soft, slightly damp cloth. Wall hangings are not usually washed often, but if needed, this one can handle an occasional gentle hand wash in tepid water with a neutral detergent.
Support the fabric while wet and let it dry flat. For small marks, spot cleaning with a mild detergent is usually enough. If you used plant-dyed fabric, see my guide on how to care for naturally dyed fabric, as those fabrics require more controlled handling.
This version brings together six eight-point star blocks, sashing, simple quilting, and a hanging sleeve into one complete object. Once you have made one, you can adjust the layout, colours, and size without changing the overall method. Make another version with different fabric or scale, or use the same structure to test new ideas. I hope this tutorial has been helpful and that you’re now feeling inspired to create more quilts, both big and small! If you enjoyed this, stay tuned and subscribe for more quilting tutorials, tips, and creative guides. Happy quilting!
